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oil
i just changed my oil for the first time on the Pro. Now the ride is alot smoother that before cause i put in 10W-40 instead of 10W-30. the only problem is that there is now a little whitish clearish smoke and a slight burning smell coming from the engine. i also checked for leaks and there are none. does anyone know what this is? i did spill a very little amount of oil while pouring it but it was probably no more than a teaspoon. thanks.
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how long was it smoking for???
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I have 10W-40 in my ES and it does the same. I dunno why.
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it just smoked right when i first started the car after the oil change. there is also a new clicking sound in the engine also.
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I would say that the clicking sound is not good, it could be the valve-train screwed up, and I think 10w40 could have done it. There has to be a leak, and it is internal - into the combustion bay. Take your sparkplugs out, and see if they are extra dirty, like really black, or smell like bured oil.
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Clicking when turned on is a loose valve/valve spring and it sound only when turned on is becaus there isn't any oil in the valve area. As soon as the oil comes up it stops. I think the only thing the oil could've done is amplify the sound.
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I am not exactly 100% sure on this one, but you have piston rings that protect oil from getting into the combustion area. There is the same kind of system on the valves, that every time the valve opens or closes, there are seals on them that prevent oil getting into the combustion area. Now, I only said that 10w40 might have done that, that is leak through the seals. Because 10W40 is thicker then 10w30, it could have prevented for the valves to move freely. Once again, this is my theory on how to engines work, and if some one can correct me, please do so. Thanks.
WOW - 600 posts!!!!! |
Use the 10-30 that Mazda recommends. 10W-40 has more additives and can leave deposits inside the engine, clog the oil control rings on the pistons, etc. There is no advantage to using 10W-40 over the recommended 10W-30, since both oils use the same "base" weight of 10W oil, the additives make a 10W oil act like it's a 30 or 40, kind of makes it stickier. Actually, gas milage will be less, but I doubt enough for anyone to notice. The old days of using a thicker oil for any "advantage" are gone. Mazda 4 cylinder engines are noisy at cold start-up, they always have piston slap until they get a little temperature in them, although it doesn't really do anything that bad for a few seconds. Actually, I think I saw something in the forum about the noise at startup in the past.
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It's just the hydraulic lifters that auto-adjust to the oil you put in.
If you put thickier oil it will be longer to warm up and it will be harder for the oil to pass in the lifters port. I tried 15w50 this summer and it was good for high rev driving but longer to warm up. As long as your willing to wait in your car before going it's ok. 10w30 is good for daily turn on and go...Now I'm back with 10w30 for colder use. The oil smell might just be the one you spill around the hot region of the engine. Unless it's coming out the exhaust tip, then you're burning oil, not good. Mine doesn't burn oil but I need to add 0.1 to 0.2l each week but I always reach 4000-5000rpm when I drive. |
i check my oil all the time. since i last changed the oil, it has been driven less than a thousand miles, but the oil has already changed to like an auburn, light brownish color. is that supposed to happen so soon, or is this normal. i do alot of highway, high rev driving so maybe that is the culprit. but the last time, before this time, that i changed my oil, i changed it with about 2000 miles on that oil change. it seems to me that i have to change the oil a little more frequently than normal.
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most time when filling up the engine with oil , I tend to spill a little , and it drips on the manifold , no bigge ... well also sometimes from taking off the oil filter, some oil would drip onto the cat ,, and when starting the car it would burn off from these 2 places .... that is what u smell ... as for the white smoke , well that has other factors ,, such as wheather , time of day , if it was 1st time starting the car or not ... and so forth
Bruce |
I've been using 5-30W for almost a year now. Weird nobody has using this range as well.... Am I screwing up the engine????
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if you live in a almost always cold area, then 5W-30 is ok. if you live in more warmer places, you may want to change to a higher grade thickness, cuz 5W-30 may be too thin and cause more wear on the engine.
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alright, i know i mentioned this before, but now i'm concerned. as i said previously, i've only changed my oil about a little under a thousand miles ago. the color is now like a maple syrup color, and i've noticed very few and small black particles in the oil. honestly, is there something wrong with the engine. how often do you guys change your oil? also, i read on another post that the size of oil filter used may affect the performance of the oil. the one that i bought from the store was smaller than the one i replaced. i'm thinking of buying the one made for the V6 626, which is bigger than the one made for the pro. does anyone have any ideas about any of this?
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Yeah!
The Mazda V6 oil filter is suppose to fit just fine. It's in the FAQ! Quote from the FAQ: Something that you should also know (regardless of which generation and engine you have): for better filtration capabilities and possibly longer filtration life, you can use a filter from a Mazda V6 engine. You can also try the Corvette ZR-1 filter which is also said to be a direct fit. Remember when you are using a larger oil filter, you will have to add a bit more oil into your engine! There is only 1 kind of Mazda V6 oil filter at the Mazda dealers, so there is no need to figure out which one works with the Protege. The larger oil filter costs the same as the (original) factory size one I need to try that for my next oil change |
ah, a good thing to know. thanks for checkin the faq pro2ndgen. perhaps i should've looked at it first:)
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would using synthetic do better for my engine cuz my oil seems to be pretty crappy (regular mobil 10W40). it seems that i have to change it more often. how does AMSOIL stack up to the competition? i was also thinkin of mobil 1.
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These are most of the reason why Synthetic is better:
Longer engine life, less friction...better cold start Viscosity is more stable in cold climate and at high rpm Last longer between oil change (8000km/5000miles) |
Yeah me. :)
It's good to change at every 60000km(37282miles) they said on the packaging. I changed mine around 110 000km(68 350miles). If you have rough idle, and noisy start-up for too long and oil getting dirty too fast, it might be it. To check it, just let run the car on idle 850rpm and while it's running, unplug the hose with the pcv valve on. Their should a issing noise and if you put on/ put off your finger on the end, you should feel the vacuum and a ear clicking noise. If not of this happen, it's time to change it. |
get this
i'm trying to change my oil yesterday, and the damn filter doesn't come off. i try for a damn hour to get the thing off, but it never budges. so now my car is just chillin outside with the old filter on. since i have t go home on wed., i just put in some oil to hold off until i go to my mechanic to see if he can get it off. but damn, what a bitch that was!! :mad:
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Did you use an oil wrench? Remember don't worry about crushing it 'cause that old filter will crush very easily just take it off!
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i think it is because it is so damn cold here that the thing is just stuck. now i know that oil doesn't freeze like water but it is like 6 degrees here. on top of that my hands froze to death.
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