cdh1313

I have a 95 Protege. 6 months ago I blew a head gasket, had fixed and okay until now. The coolant is boiling out, and you can smell coolant when running the A.C. I put on a new radiator cap, no help. Both fans are working correctly....Temp gauge runs just less the 50%, so it doesn't appear to be over heating. Need some help where to go next????? New radiator? Please needs suggestions.
Thanks in advance/

cornercarve98

Ok, I'm just thinking here. I'm not an expert on this sort of thing at all, but here are my thoughts trying to help to the best of what I know. Take it or leave it, it's cool either way.

Have you looked around the engine bay or used a flashlight or something to see where the coolant could be coming out of? If it's boiling out and you can smell it, chances are that it will somewhat solidify on some part of the car (i.e. running down a radiator). I don't know if you ran the AC while looking under the hood as the engine runs, but you could try it if you haven't. I would think you'd definitely smell where it's coming from then.

I really wish I had my auto class book. I'm trying to remember how the AC and general engine circuits (systems) interracted...Dang...um...ya, just try looking around at radiator hoses and connections. It seems like the AC system (as best to my knowledge) gets some help from the engine (belts)...I believe the compressor is the unit. Feel free to correct/affirm that, anyone. The AC system obviously stresses the engine to some degree. I think anyone with a 4 cylinder car knows it takes some power away (also lowers idle speed) and that it's annoying.

Is the car warmed up when it does this, or does engine temperature not matter--it happens whenever? Other than that, I'm out of ideas. I'm probably missing something, here. Either way, I'd suggest at least snooping around the engine bay and see if you can see anything. Hope you find the problem.

macdaddyslomo

check your thermostat

cdh1313

Temp sensor (gauge) seems to be working okay, no change from normal. I put new radiator cap on last night. While doing some looking it seems that i have air pushing out of the radiator. At normal operating temp, with cap off I speed up engine and water level would go down (looking into radiator) and when I let off fluid came back up...I installed cap and looking into overflow it seems to be pusing air back. I assume at this point that it is head gasket again, my only concern is that it is not overheating and I have no water mixed in the oil. Is it possible to have blown gasket without overheating or water in oil?

cornercarve98

I was wondering about the thermostat as well but I just didn't know. Again, just pondering, I wonder if the leak is somewhere in the return hose (just a guess) itself or connections on either side. My thinking goes that since the thermostat opens up when the engine gets warm (allowing coolant to now flow through the radiator to maintain constant temperature), and you give it gas (further requiring coolant circulation and at a higher rate), that it may stress a hose or somewhat lose connection that wouldn't be a problem otherwise.

But it seems the radiator cap did the trick for the radiator leak. I guess it could be the head gasket again. Warm coolant (nice oxymoron there) maybe thin enough to squeeze through the gaps in the gasket. I wonder if you would see green (or red or whatever color it is) on the engine block...Um, I reallly don't know the answer to the overheating question. I guess possibly if it's a slow slow leak. Happy hunting.

mannydingo

If there's no oil in the coolant then it's probably not the head gasket. Well, unless it's a minor leak. See, I was thinking the guy may have not replaced the cylinder head bolts to the right torque--they may not be tight enough and one or some got a bit loose. I agree that you first need to confirm they didn't leave a hose loose or something. It could be as simple as an old hose that finally broke a hole. They sometimes break right where the clamp is holding it down. After that, check the thermostat, as stated. Next, do a close inspection of the radiator and drive car up on ramps or jack it to see from under car. If it turns out that it's coming from the head gasket area again, go back to the same mechanic with this in hand and looking just like this:

cdh1313

Okay, checked it out...cracked head. After several calls I had one place tell me that most places will not rebuild 1.5 engine (American Engnine Rebuilders), but another (Joyco) tells me they will rebuild mine. Anyone have a clue about rebuilding the 1.5? With 196,000 miles on car I don't want to just replace the head. Have looked at JDM engines anyone have clue on these? One last...is the 1.8 a direct swap? Thanks for all you help.

mannydingo

This is why I can't stand that people don't put their location in their profile. If you were local, this post would have some suggestions. Now I have to wait for you to respond and tell me that you do, or don't live near. Just go back to your profile and add your city and state. It will then appear on every post you make. No one can come knocking at your door just by putting city and state. Anyway, I agree you should just drop in another engine instead of replacing the head. If you can go some time w/o using the car, the z5 engine, like yours, will pop up cheap. That's because some people swap in the 1.8 and have a working 1.5 left(that answers your question about the 1.8 fitting). If you can't wait and buying an engine where you live is too expensive, you will just have to replace the head with a repaired one that wasn't ever cracked. Buying an engine from another part of the country that's cheap suddenly becomes expensive when you find that the shipping will cost hundreds.

cdh1313

Updated profile. Okla., I have found some JDM engines reasonable...and the price at Joyco is 1650 installed, but my concern is that the other place said that no one should rebuild the 1.5....beware of anyone that does???

mannydingo

Here's a link on ebay of a guy that has a business here where I live:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-M...spagenameZWDVW

If you lived here, you could buy that engine for $300 with the tax. Five minutes from me is the guy that fixes my transmissions. He charges $300 to pull out your engine and put in the one you bring in with you. So, for a total of $600, plus getting your car towed there and any other odds and ends costs, you get a fully working engine in your car. Ofcourse, we live in an extremely metropolitan area that has to compete. Find out how much this guy charges to ship the engine to you. First shop around your area to see who is cheapest at pulling down your engine and putting in the replacement. Most places drop both engine and transmission and separate them outside the car.