Need Help in replacing protege radiator
 

Hello Everyone,

I own a mazda protege 1994 with 78000 miles on it. A few weeks ago collant started coming out from the top and I found little cracks in the plastic top. I did some research and found that I will have to replace the radiator and it can not be repaired. I have haynes manual which has instructions regarding removal and installation of a radiator . I have following questions, I will really appreciate if you guys can help me out.

1) Do I need to remove resonance chamber? the book says I should but I was not sure so I thought I would ask you guys.
2) I could not find the transaxle cooler line. Can you please tell me where is it located?
3) Do I need to remove the collant reservoir, It is not damaged so why should I remove it?
4) Where the wiring connector , the book says at the fan motor.

unfortunately there are not enough pictures in the book just the text.

Please help

Thanks

i was taking a look at mine earlier today.

It's really simple once you get going. I never trust the haynes manuals. Their pictures suck. So go for it, yank everything off.

The electrical connector is close to the center of the fan looking from the engine side to the front so look from the back. The transaxle lines are metal lines that go into the sides of the radiator plastic. Take care when removing these and even more careful when you put them back in or you will strip the threads. No, you don't have to remove the coolant reservoir or anything else. I do like and trust the Haynes manuals but they are not perfect. ........... Jorge

Replacing radiator
 

Thanks all of you for answers and your time. I have have a final quick question while looking the hoeses I found two hoses at the top one small going to reservoir and other a big one. Are there more hoses at the bottom and do I need to remove them to remove the radiator?.

Thanks again

JUST DO IT!
 

No offense or anything but man my mother could take the radiator out of a pro. :D On a serious note tho' just make sure u have all the pans onder the car cause it gets messy,..or at least ia did for me. Anyway just go ahead and start taking things off its real easy Good Luck :cool:

Just empty the coolant pull the hoses and unbolt it, shouldnt be to hard

there's another big hose under it. Its on the left side of the radiator looking at it from the front of the car,loosen the clamp and slide the hose off the radiator. The transaxle lines are 2and theyre on the lower part of the radiator. one is by the middle and the other on is on the right side (looking at it from the front of the car). I've done this and its common sense.

Come on guys, for a novice any job can seem like it's going to be hard. Just take off each and every single hose or metal line or connector that's attached to the radiator or the fan because it's screwed onto the radiator. Like others said, this is one of the easier jobs on a car. Don't let the looks fool you. It's easy but keep an eye on where you put all the screws.

it takes like 10 minutes to pull it out and ten minutes to put it back so its real easy

left/right descriptions are when looking into the engine bay standing in front of the car.

1. With a cooled down or cold engine, remove top cap and drain coolant. drain plug is on bottom right

2. remove clamp on top hose, remove hose. If the hose is stuck on real good (they usually are) use a flat head screwdriver and slide it under the hose and carefully pry all around to break the seal.

(If w/automatic trans)
2a. unplug sensor at top of radiator to the right of top cap.

3. safely jack vehicle up (if needed) to access the lower hose easier.

4. remove clamp on lower hose, remove hose. If the hose is stuck on real good (they usually are) use a flat head screw driver and slide it under the hose and carefully pry all around to break the seal.

(if w/automatic trans)
4a. disconnect transmissoin cooler lines. There are 2 of them, a feed line and a return line. I've used clay or even silly putty to plug the lines, stops the fluid from leaking out. DO NOT STICK IT IN TOO FAR OR A PIECE MAY GET STUCK AND CLOG THE SYSTEM. Still, a drain pan is needed as the fluid running through the cooler will flow out. If you have rubber lines, using a set of vise grips, you can pinch the line so it won't leak (or leak much) take care in not damaging the rubber hoses.

5. unblot the x4 10mm bolts from the 2 top mounts.

6. unplug the fan connector. The connector is on the far right side of the fan. It has wing things on it, ling a wing nut.

7. pull the radiator out.

8. install in the reverse order.

9. add new mix of coolant/water

10. check transmission fluid level and refill if needed

1. with top cap STILL OFF run engine up to operating temp (about 5 mins). Shut engine off and top off coolant. Put the cap on and your good to go.

How many times have u done this man? lol

While you're out looking for a radiator, make sure you get one that's ALL METAL! They are out there. Oh yeah, it's not a hard job. BTW, is the car auto or stickshift? If it's a stickshift car, there are no transmission coolant lines going to the radiator.

Thanks a thousand Times
 

To everyone who replied and to everyone who provided detailed tips. Thanks a lot for all the help. I will print the instructions and replace the radiator. You guys are really cool and helpful.

Thanks once again.

Bye

:cheers: :blue: :bigthumb:

No, only I am really cool and helpful. All others are just losers. But really, everyone IS being very helpful with someone who hasn't been into fixing cars and needed the help.

twice, but the last time was just over a month ago :)