Idling problem
 

ok, I am having a problem with my car idling to low. I have an automatic, and when I am in reverse, and them shift back into drive, the idle goes way down, and almost shuts off the car..... I have to almost hit the gas as soon as I shift.

So does anyone know what my problem may be? Or does anyone know how to set the Idle a little higher? can someone please help me!!!!

hmm, I'm not very smart with engines....can you show me a pic?

thank you so very much, that is where I thought it was, but I didn't know.... thank you!

I have the same problem on my 5 speed. I can push the clutch in and my RPMs drop. Or if I tap the gas it will rev up then drop and almost go dead. Will changing the idle settings help me? And if so I cant screw anything up doing this can I?

if adjusting your idle isn't helping any, you might want to have somebody run a computer on it and see what pops up, cause in some cases, it could be a bad mass air flow sensor, easy fix, and can be had under $50 used, around $120 aftermarket and slightly more dealership, takes 15 minutes to install
peace

Re: Idling problem
 

Did you ever replace the intake hose ??? If not, tape it up temporarily because that's what's probably causing your bad idle.

finally, fixed that problem good. Thanks for the info guys, i was starting to think it was normal:(

it is my intake hose :)

Re: Re: Re: Idling problem
 

Well it's sort of after the fact, but I don't agree. I had a crack in my intake hose as well. I made a little rip when I was putting my cone filter on last year. It took me an hour to find out what was causing my rough idle and at the end I spotted the damn crack, taped it over, and the car started running perfectly.:)

I believe you and I find that to be very weird. I am sure that my problem was because of a crack in the intake hose and as you can tell this was the cause of rough idle for others as well. Why would the car need the air flow meter if it gets ALL the air needed AFTER the VAF ??? That's the only thing that seems a bit weird about this. It could be some difference in generations, but I highly doubt it. Also, what do you mean by "a crack in the intake hose BEFORE the throttle" ? There's no intake hose once it enters the throttle body.

wouldn't letting that extra air in lean out your A/F ratio? because your VAF is measuring how much air is actually going into the motor and then giving that info to the ECU which deterimines how much fuel to give it through the injectors, i would have to agree that rips and tears in your intake would be cause rough idles and such.

I know that my problem was the intake hose

if, in the rare case, your MAF should foul up, the car will be largely undriveable. i only say the MAF because it's listed by mazda as being a common problem (or at least a known problem that happens on a often enough basis to make a point of it). i've had this problem, took it to 3 shops to check it out, they tried changing the throttle position, telling me that the cable was worn out completely, saying i would need a tune up, before the 3rd shop ran it on a computer and found a flag for a faulty MAF sensor. i spent $100 or so, fixed it, and that was the end of it, no problems. has anyone ever had this problem?
peace

about the computer hook up. On the first gens they dont have OBDII connectors. therefore you cant hook a computer up to see exactly whats goin on. they use lil wiring harness' to find out when the engine light is on to see whats the problem. Only way tog et anything on the computer also is if the ENGINE light is on. if its not lit, nothing will show on the computer.

Glad you guys fixed ur problems. If it idles rough, i was saying check the VAF harness' somtimes its not plugged in all the way, or maybe a tooth on it could be bent and malfunctions the vaf. seems like that wasnt the problem thou.;)

One of the pictures above shows a crack in the intake hose 'before the throttle body'. The reason this messes up engine operation is a box sitting off the picture to he lower right. It's the Mass Air Flow sensor or MAF. It is the sensor that meaures how much air (the mass) that is coming into the engine in order to calculate the correct fuel delivery to the engine. All air entering the engine MUST be measured by this sensor or the engine operation will be compromised. The throttle body only controls how much air the driver wants the engine to have. The
computer (with input from the MAF and other sensors) then calclates the correct amount of fuel to inject. All hoses, etc. between the MAF and engine must be intact and sealed or the engine will not run correctly.