CV joints...
 

My CV joints are leaking and clicking and I was about to change them, when I found out that the new engine (BPT) I intended to purchase comes with new front axles.... The problem is that I won't be getting the engine into the car for a few weeks, maybe even a month.

So the question I have for all of you is: What is the risk of rolling on bad CV joints for a month or so? Will the wheels fall off? Will I lose all power transfer to the wheels? What happens when CV joints go bad, and how long do I probably have before the car goes DEAD?

As far as I know the rest of the driveshafts are fine, but the boots are leaking and I can hear clicking, even when rolling in a straight line, most pronouced on bumps.

I'll make sure to keep you all updated and let you know when the engine is in.... (If I have to change the driveshafts, it'll be a bit longer...)

Thanks alot!

don't worry about it at all..............I had the same problem with my CV joints, but I still pushed the car to 120mph on the highway and they held, so you shouldn't have a problem......

make sure you keep us updated on how the swap goes......

I've been driving on bad cv joints for a month or so... and hope to be doing so for a long time to come. Basicly, if i have to have the joints replaced, i might as well just get a new car cause the rest of this one isnt holding up so good either. So im gonna cross my fingers and hope it lasts until i save up some money (which could be a long time seeing as how i dont have a job)

How long do you guys think one could last on leakey boots and worn joints?

Boots (particularly) and CV joints should be considered wear items. According to a respected Mazda shop, if you get 100k out of your CVs, you're doing pretty well. My first set of outer CV boots went 66k (L) and 72k (R). The second set was going at 130k, so I just replaced the axles (at about $60 ea.) While I was at it, I had new wheel bearings pressed in. One of the boots on the replacement axle developed a small tear, so I replaced it, but I expect it to last at least another 60+k miles.

One of the disadvantages of racing is that greater stresses are placed on the CVs and boots, but one of the advantages is that I change tires and wheels much more frequently, which means I can inspect the boots regularly and spot small tears before they become really big problems.

How long can you run on bad ones? Until they seize. How long is that. It depends on many things. Temperature, weather conditions, how you drive, whether you do anything about the tear, how soon you noticed the tear, whether you still have boots (and grease). There are so many variables that it's impossible to say.

But changing the axles is fairly easy, if you are even somewhat mechanically inclined. Other than perhaps needing a impact wrench to free the axle nut, even if you don't have the specific tools to do it, it shouldn't cost more than $20 (for the tools). Darryl has a nice write up on his site.

Edited to add URL, and clarify one sentence

My friends 94 ford probe gt went two years on split boots and alot of duct tape. He eventually replaced them but damn those mazda axles are almost bullet proof in my experiences

due to my laziness, i ran with a bad CV for months and about 2 months with NO outer boot (which included 3 race days)... before replacing it, it bacame a quest to break it...all it did was just make more noise :D

Give yourself some credit David :D ok i'll do it for you.... David was a big help with this AXLE how-to...:p ;)

http://www.automediazone.com/images/...new2_small.jpg

The BPT should be in in a week!
I can't wait!!
BLITZIN PROTEGE POWER!!!!
By the way my joints are still fine...The clicking has actually subsided a little.

Oh yeah and I forgot to mention if anyone is interested, I've decided to temporarily re-name my car Heinz: It's red and it moves slow...
I ran a 16.80 at Napierville dragway last month.

Planning on getting into 13s by mid-june.

I know it won't be that hard. A guy I know has an 88 GT running 20psi on a B6T doing 13.39. My BPT can easily handle 20 (for racing only of course) and I figure since my HP figures will be higher, and with the weight difference, I'll be able to shave as much as 1/2 a second off his time... All in theory of course.

My friend just got an 88 GTX AWD (holy SH%T it's insane fast-he's boosting 10-13 psi) and we'll be begining construction of a 10-second GTR BPT-powered 94 323 LX (I know that's pretty rare) project car for MIDNITE MEKANIX (replacement for WEDGEperformance-check the link) in the next month.

Done for now. That was kinda long-winded, but I have'nt been on in a while...

Just shake up 'Heinz' with a BPT and it should be a lil' faster.... :eek:
SOUNDS GOOD!! :bt:

and....Where did you get your BPT from?

A place called JDM1 here in montreal check out their site: www.jdm1.com

I know the owner through a friend...

this same thing happened to my friend with his 88 Mercury Tracer (i believe this is just a 323 with a diff badge).... it ended up that he needed a new cv joint of course, and also a new tranny.... its currently in the shop being fixed.

I found a pic of the run I mentionned earlier... God I need a back bumper!
http://www.montrealracing.com/2002/n...27april076.JPG

By the way, I still have'nt got my engine! The punk is'nt returning my phone calls! If this turn into another dead end, that's it, I quit! I'll be running high 16s forever!!!!!:rant: