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-   -   94 protege not starting (https://www.mazda3club.com/1st-gen-protege-323-glc-38/94-protege-not-starting-38763/)

low February-27th-2005 05:25 PM

94 protege not starting
 
Hello everyone I'm low..... LOL

I have a 94 protegewith the 1.8 soc motor... The engine will turn over and it will sound like it wants to start but doesn't... It has spark and gas plus i just changed the timing belt and water pump on it.. Just to let you know it wasn't starting brfore i replaced those parts... Oh yeah the water pump was leaking... My ex wife was driving the car and it had over heated so my boy towed it back to the house for her... When i looked at the car this plug cam out of the raditor that is next to the a sensor that is at the top, right above the fan.... So I replaced the plug and put some new plugs , distibutor cap and rotor and tried to start it but nothing... Can someone point me in the right direction to what might be the problem? Thanks !!!!!

topfile February-27th-2005 08:07 PM

Clarify please, has it started at all since the tow home?

Was the distributor wet from overheating
and the coolant leak?

Confirmed firing order and rotary button position?

Best Regards

low February-27th-2005 10:27 PM

nah it hasn't started since the tow home... I put a new cap and rotor on it ... I checked to see if any of the wires were wet and i didn't find any... Oh yeah i hear a funny knocking noise coming from the breather when i ty to start the car... I was wondering if any of the sensors might be the problom or if it could be the pcm... I was going to get the codes read to see what comes up...

topfile February-27th-2005 10:48 PM

You said you had spark. Is it a consistant spark? I mean does
it spark during the full crank of the engine or just at the begining
and end of the crank?

low February-28th-2005 07:30 AM

yeah it has spark the whole time.... It sounds like it wants to start , I can hear it putting a lil during the start up .....

topfile February-28th-2005 11:10 AM

1. Clean all the Grounds you can get a wrench on, at firewall below
battery, below the igniter bracket, two white conn. multi-grounds, even clean
the bracket that the coil and igniter are mounted on, to insure a good ground.
Clean the gound point at the distributor and engine block.

2. Tightened all the air intake hose clamps, from the Air filter to the Trottle body.

3. Using canned air, dry out all connecters in the engine compartment that could
be opened. Take the battery compartment out and start opening connectors looking for moisture.

4. Consider replacing all plug wires with new set.

5. Take a look inside the Distributor and confirm no moisture at all. Any
at all will prevent a start.

6. Consider replacing the coolant temp sensor last. The I heard can cause
some strange problems.

Best Regards

7. Timing.

8. Did you confirm the firing order and check the rotary button placement position?
this is a very common problem.

low February-28th-2005 01:37 PM

yeah i have checked the rotor placement and the timing ... I will check all the grounds and the wiring under the battery compartment.... Thanks for the help.. oh yeah it has a new distribor cap and i'm getting a good spark from all the wires , i also put new plugs in too... Once it stops snowing again I will check those things out and get backto yall...

Proto93 March-1st-2005 12:20 PM

Sounds awfully close to being out of time to me. How comfortable are you with the alignment of everything when you did the timing belt?
Second, have you done a compression check on it? If it overheated that much, could have done head or head gasket damage. Do a dry and wet compression test on it and post the results maybe...

topfile March-1st-2005 08:39 PM

Crap, just remembered this happed to a friends
Toyota. After reading proto93 post, this came to mind.
It was a small break in the head gasket between
cylinder 1 and 2. Found by compression test.
Would not strart after overheating.

Headgasket repair was $300 total. Small local shop.

Hope this is not the probelm.

low March-2nd-2005 01:30 PM

Damnit i hope it isn't the head gasket ........ I will check it out on saturday... I'm comfortable with the timing it was pretty easy to do... it is the sohc 1.8 for the cam the marks should be at 12 and 3 and for the crank it should be between 12 and 1 thats what the book showed me and i got the marks aligned right... But i will do the compressing check yall please pray for me ... Hey I don't know if I mentioned this before but when i try to start it antifreeze comes out of the over flow tube .... But thanks for the help and if any of yall are in the area nova falls church I would like to exchange numbers so I could call you when i'm dong the compression check...

Proto93 March-3rd-2005 07:48 AM

low, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you're pushing antifreeze out of the overflow when you turn the engine over then somethings blown. What's happening is the compression is not holding in the cylinder, but instead is pushing past either a leak in the headgasket or a crack in the head/block into the water jackets. That in turn is blowing it out the radiator overflow. I am hoping it's just a headgasket, but even at that you're going to want to check the head for warping. When it over heated, something gave. Post the results for the compression check. I'm betting you're going to have two cylinders next to each other that both show significant drop in compression. Make sure to do the wet test after you're done with the dry. Sorry man.

low March-3rd-2005 08:41 AM


Originally Posted by Proto93
low, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you're pushing antifreeze out of the overflow when you turn the engine over then somethings blown. What's happening is the compression is not holding in the cylinder, but instead is pushing past either a leak in the headgasket or a crack in the head/block into the water jackets. That in turn is blowing it out the radiator overflow. I am hoping it's just a headgasket, but even at that you're going to want to check the head for warping. When it over heated, something gave. Post the results for the compression check. I'm betting you're going to have two cylinders next to each other that both show significant drop in compression. Make sure to do the wet test after you're done with the dry. Sorry man.


I will do that for sho.... How hard is it to replace the head gasket ....

bunyan March-3rd-2005 05:19 PM

Read the f-in manual :p lol

bunyan

topfile March-3rd-2005 06:08 PM

:dj: So ...Bunyan goes to the trouble to join the
forum just to post this one and only comment.
Interesting, hey?

Low.. many times the head is warped which can complicate
things. As ya know, a local machine shop could help with this
part.

Some years back a friend of mine replaced the head gasket
on a his 1983 2.4l toyota celica. It was his first time with it and he
did a great job. He said the hardest part was was probably the
getting the head rebuilt, which he didn't even do.

As I remember he had a little install help from his father-inlaw.

Keep us posted.

Best Regards

bunyan March-4th-2005 07:39 AM

Low is my cousin lol...


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