Vibration Problem
 

Hi guys,

My 92 LX car has this problem that has been bugging me ever since I own it. Whenever I try to accelerate, there is this weird vibration/shaking that can be felt at the front of the car. But if I were to just cruise on the road, the vibration cease to exist. Also, this problem seems to disappear completely if I were to drive long enough on the road. I've changed the oil and air filter. The spark plugs and wire was changed not long ago.... My friend advised me that it could be the engine mounts that need to be changed.

So everyone.... if this is not the engine mount problem, what could it be? If this is an engine mount problem, how much would I be looking into spending it? I'm just a starving college student.... if I can save, I would save...

I don't know if this will pertain to the Pro tranny, but your description reminds me of another car that came into the shop with the same exact symptoms.
It was a '92 Camry, VERY well maintained. The owner complained of a shaking/vibration in the car and wanted our input on the problem. Under power only, it would vibrate pretty badly. The mounts checked out good. Got it on a lift and started grabbing and shaking everthing. It turns out that where the axle shaft comes out of the tranny, the axle would move up/down-fwd/back, as if the bearing in the tranny that the inner axle rides on were "wallowed" out. Too expensive to replace a Camry auto-tranny, owner shit-canned the car.

I've heard of what Bill is describing happen on a 626 also. Apparently the rebuilt half shafts used on the 626 had excessive tolerances and were moving around in the transaxle. Made a mess and got expensive. Actually had a technician tell me not to use remanufactured shafts on my Protege to avoid the same problem.

Other suggestions that might cause vibration only under heavier load would be the clutch assembly chatter, wheel bearings and even worn shocks that aren't handling load changes. Go to an open parking lot and drive your car in circles, both directions, at lock-to-lock steering, SLOWLY and see if you get any popping in the wheel or audibly. That usually means bad CVs (halfshafts). Bad shocks can exaggerate the problem due to a lack of control of the vibration. Does your car continue to "wallow" after going over bumps?
Do you feel any chatter in the clutch pedal when you start off in first? or anything unusual in the clutch pedal? That would indicate something awry in that part of the driveline. Hope this helps. - rob

Re: Vibration Problem
 

i just had all of my engine mounts (and the tranny mount) replaced 2 weeks ago, and i still have the same problem. :(

It sounds like something has excessive tolerance since it only arises under load. Jack up the car so that one of the front wheels is off the ground (use a jack stand to support the car). Then grab the tire firmly and try shake/rock it in the same motion/direction as if it were being steered (side to side). Do this to both sides and if you feel any looseness it's probably a wheel bearing. -rob

Re: Re: Vibration Problem
 

.... and what about the "creaking" noise ???????

Re: Re: Re: Vibration Problem
 

i haven't heard it, although i haven't been listening for it either. :dunno: i'll have to ride around a little with my stereo off and try to hear it.

You did not mention mileage, so I assume high mileage. Likely culprets are:

1) Inner CV joint (happened on my wifes, now mine, 92 LX auto with same symptoms.)
2) Wheel Bearings
3) Tires

Try rotating the tires to eliminate them from the equation.

Then, check the wheel bearings for excess play -- jack up a corner and pull on top and bottom of tire noting any play.

If nothing, remove the half shafts and inspect for excessive play on CV joints. From my experience, the problem usually is on the side the noise seems to NOT be coming from, do not know why. As long as the half shafts are out, may as well also spin the wheel bearings to see if they spin smoothly.

John Q