Head Gasket Replacement
 

I have a 1.8L DOHC BP engine from an '95 Escort GT that I will be putting into my '91 Mazda 323. I have the engine mostly apart and will most likely be porting the head while I have it out and with doing that, will be taking the head off of the engine. My question is whether or not the head gasket always needs to be replaced when removing the head, and if so where can I find a head gasket at a good price, and what are my options for head gaskets? I don't want to get too crazy moneywise, since I am already doing a lot more to the engine then I had planned to. Just want to know what my options are and what is recommended. Any info/comments will be appreciated.

323 (soon to be 1.8L DOHC 323)

Re: Head Gasket Replacement
 

I'm not sure about where to find a good headgasket at. Someone with more experience could tell you, but YES FOR THE LOVE OF GOD. Always use a new head gasket when ou take the head off.
Even if the head has been on for a day use a new one.

What he said.

As far as purchasing a new one, I was able to get an entire top end gasket set from Advance Auto for about $70. It included gaskets for both the intake and exhaust manifolds, injector gaskets, T-stat housing gasket, head gasket, throttle bodie gasket...basically all of the gaskets short of the oil pan gasket and mains seals.

i might as well buy a head bolts for it too.......you have too

I was told by a mechanic at a Mazda dealer that the head didn't need to be replaced on a SOHC. I'm not sure if it'd be different for the DOHC. But I believe that the bolts were some where around $10 a piece. Just something I would look into further before dropping that much money for the bolts.
For my sake I hope that I haven't been misinformed. I didn't replace mine when I had it apart.

The head bolts should be replaced. Torque to yeild head bolts more or less "stretch" during installation. When reinstalling used headbolts, it may not be possible to properly re-torque them (possible false torquing included). I'd rather spend $100 and insure proper installation of the head than $300+ to replace a damaged head.

Right, but from what I was told, these engines use non-yielding bolts, so then when you torque down the bolts, your not taking the bolts to their limit, and not stretching them so then they don't need to be replaced.
But... now I've head both sides of the story, to replace them, and not replace them. So which one is it? I couldn't find anything about it in the service manual.

Dunno if this is a valid way to look at it or not, but why would they use more expensive head bolts on a lower trim car?