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This is a tip - not a question. I have a 2006 Mazda3 4 door. Last year, my radio display stopped working! I could still play the radio, CD, etc. I just could not see what time it was, the temperature, or what station was playing, etc. Everything else on the dashboard was working fine. I took my car to the dealership and they said it would cost about 600-700 to fix because it wasn't a fuse problem. I walked straight out of there laughing - no way was I shelling out that much money to a stealership. As long as I could hear the radio, I was fine. Fast forward a year later, last night, my car died because I left the lights on for a few hours. Someone helped me jump start the car, and my jaw just dropped to the ground when I saw my radio display light up!! It came back from the dead!! I have All I can do is pass on the message and hopefully this remedy would help others with this problem. I guess jump starting the car reset the electrical system somehow. At any rate, I'm one HAPPY camper.
I doubt it was the jump, but the low battery & reset that it caused... so removing the battery or fuse may solve the problem too.
Glad to hear you found an easy fix.
Dave '07 M3 GT, manual, - black
Adders: backup sensors, current limited hi-beams (for long life), Fog light on with running lights (t=44332 PAGE2), low beam aiming switch adjustment (t=47722), dash squeak reduction, badges removed, door bumpers removed, auto up/down windows, under seat subwoofer, True hidden hitch (t=53213), rear camber fix (t=53425)
Info / help: outside running lights only as DRL (t=54453)
link example http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=54453
I have just googled the problem because it has happened out of the blue today - also a 2006 but a 5 door.
Told husband and he suggested I disconnected the battery and reconnected!!!!! Can't believe he may be right. He is now asking which fuse controls the radio unit and display- does anyone know?
Thanks for the great tip. Last time I had the temperature/radio display fixed it cost ~$150 for the unit. I want to try the battery reconnect this time, as the unit has failed again after only 2 years.
Just a bump on this thread, as I encountered the same problem on a Mazda 3 (2012) I just purchased. The salesman didn't know about this fix, so I was able to talk him down a bit. I found out this is a common problem for all of the c1 chasis (mazda bk) cars made by volvo, ford, as well as mazda. They share common electronics for the Ford Focus, Volvo (several models), and the Mazda 3. A neighbor had this same problem with his Ford a year ago, and the battery disconnect trick worked there too. An electrical engineer who works with me checked out the car, and pretty much agreed with me that the stock negative battery cable terminal is crap. Replace it with a beefier aftermarket one, and you shouldn't have that problem again.