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Old January-10th-2011, 11:17 AM   #1
Omni1
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My Mazda3 won't start.

This problem has been persistent over the past year. My car would not start. I would need to slam it into park in order to get it started.

Now, it won't start at all. All the lights come on, the radio, etc.. but the engine won't turn over.

It's a Mazda3 2006, Automatic Transmission.

Is there a way to get it started other than in park? Any idea what the issue might be?
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Old January-10th-2011, 11:30 AM   #2
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put it in neutral
and replace the park / neutral safety switch - that sounds like your issue, but i'm not sure where they are mounted to help much further.
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Dave '07 M3 GT, manual, - black
Adders: backup sensors, current limited hi-beams (for long life), Fog light on with running lights (t=44332 PAGE2), low beam aiming switch adjustment (t=47722), dash squeak reduction, badges removed, door bumpers removed, auto up/down windows, under seat subwoofer, True hidden hitch (t=53213), rear camber fix (t=53425)
Info / help: outside running lights only as DRL (t=54453)
link example http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=54453
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Old January-10th-2011, 11:38 AM   #3
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Ok so the car will start in neutral?
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Old January-11th-2011, 05:31 AM   #4
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Any automatic transmission has a safety switch so you can't start it in gear, there's an enable switch in park, and another in neutral.
The "TR" switch is located right at the shift linkage end on the transmission. I don't have time to take pics, but if you're going to work on it yourself, message back and I can take some pics from the manual to help you out.
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Dave '07 M3 GT, manual, - black
Adders: backup sensors, current limited hi-beams (for long life), Fog light on with running lights (t=44332 PAGE2), low beam aiming switch adjustment (t=47722), dash squeak reduction, badges removed, door bumpers removed, auto up/down windows, under seat subwoofer, True hidden hitch (t=53213), rear camber fix (t=53425)
Info / help: outside running lights only as DRL (t=54453)
link example http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=54453
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Old October-6th-2011, 11:33 AM   #5
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I have a similar problem:

The other day I went to start my 2006 and it would not start. The dash lights, cd player etc all came on- but once I turned the ignition there was no sound from the ignition or engine.

I got the car towed the nearest garage. While on the way over the tow truck driver was talking about a similar situation that he had encountered earlier with the exact same car. Once he had dropped the individual off with their car it mysteriously started again. And you can imagine my surprise when that exact scenario happened to me. My car started again as if there was no problem.

Should I be looking at getting a new starter?

Last edited by NNT; October-6th-2011 at 11:39 AM.
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Old October-7th-2011, 11:56 AM   #6
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I think the key transponder / security system has the same effect. I'm not 100% sure on this one, but on other vehicles, if it's not reading the proper key code it will not start the engine, but it also flashes the security key light. So have a look for that next time it happens to see if it's an issue with the key / security system.
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Dave '07 M3 GT, manual, - black
Adders: backup sensors, current limited hi-beams (for long life), Fog light on with running lights (t=44332 PAGE2), low beam aiming switch adjustment (t=47722), dash squeak reduction, badges removed, door bumpers removed, auto up/down windows, under seat subwoofer, True hidden hitch (t=53213), rear camber fix (t=53425)
Info / help: outside running lights only as DRL (t=54453)
link example http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=54453
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Old August-3rd-2012, 05:38 PM   #7
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hi am not sure how this forum works, was looking to star a thread but dont know how to, anyway my problem is with my mazda 3 1.6td, about 6 weeks the turbo went, we replaced ourselves 480 and all was fine for around a week then it felt like being dragged back whilst driving, thought it was fuel filter so replaced 34 and sice then it just wont start, when it does the rev counter is raising and dropping in idle, have cleared all fuel lines with compressed air, refuleled without any air in system, done oil change since the turbo kicked all the oil into the air filter which i obviously changed 13. i thought oil may have gone down dpf filter so had it regenerated at mazda (230) no joy took it to local garage who said it would be aprox 350 - 400 but said couldnt garatee it would be fixed, tok the chance and he had it for a week and a half got it back today and still not fixed said he would sort it if i had an open cheque book, i gonna take exhaust off tomorrow to check that (only because i cant think of a single thing left to try) any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
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Old August-4th-2012, 05:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazza12345 View Post
all was fine for around a week then it felt like being dragged back whilst driving
when it does the rev counter is raising and dropping in idle
Did these two things happen at the same time? - poor performance and "hunting" idle?
The idle issue is typical of an air leak, since you just did the turbo there could be a fitting that's loose or not properly sealed.
Another option is if the turbo was performing poorly before, the engine computer could have been compensating for it (with O2 sensors telling it something was wrong). SO it may take some time to get back to normal, or need a battery reset to relearn what's happening with performance.

I recently cleaned the throttle body and idle control valve on an old forester and it was high idle and hunting idle for a couple of ignition cycles before it smoothed out to normal.

If you have a workshop manual, it may have some troubleshooting tips about the problems you have - sometimes the books are helpful (suggesting an air leak), and sometimes they aren't (suggesting bad sensor but specifically saying which sensor).
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Dave '07 M3 GT, manual, - black
Adders: backup sensors, current limited hi-beams (for long life), Fog light on with running lights (t=44332 PAGE2), low beam aiming switch adjustment (t=47722), dash squeak reduction, badges removed, door bumpers removed, auto up/down windows, under seat subwoofer, True hidden hitch (t=53213), rear camber fix (t=53425)
Info / help: outside running lights only as DRL (t=54453)
link example http://www.mazda3club.com/showthread.php?t=54453
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Old August-4th-2012, 04:07 PM   #9
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hi there, thank you for your reply, after the turbo was replaced we drove it a few miles and it felt like it was being dragged back as if the brakes were coming on then it would be fine, with the occational cut out but would usually turn off the key first or second time, this is what led me to change the fuel filter thinking it may be blocked giving brief fuel starvation. Once fuel filter was changed it would not start at all, this is an intermittent problem as today i jumped it from a tow first attempt, since then it has started first time every time apart from once which was 3rd attempt. in the morning it probably wont start at all, but i think i have located the problem, was reving the car today and coincidently noticed that a few tiny bubbles were coming from the third injector base which increased when hard revving, so am going to change the injector seal on monday, as my theory is that as you mentioned that the idle prob is a classic example of air in the system, and if air is leaking out when under pressure that when the engin is off its going to start sucking air in slowly but enough to give it the non start problem, i will let you know how i get on, once again thanks for your input.
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Old August-4th-2012, 04:07 PM
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