justalex

On my 2009 Mazda 3s 5-spd,

Can anyone tell me how to adjust the clutch pedal? I'm finding plastic parts under the dash, no lock-nut. I checked under the hood where the clutch arm goes in to the bellhousing, no adjustment there either.????

djs2571

I think there's a length adjustment on the "pin" that connects the foot pedal to push on the master cylinder. Though it is hydraulic, so there shouldn't be a need to adjust it as the clutch wears.
If you have an issue i'd change the clutch / brake fluid & bleed the systen to see if that helps.

justalex

I have a plastic pin, but it is not adjustable. Problem is, when I engage the clutch my foot is off the floor, which makes for some interesting(jerky) take-offs. I need engagement to be closer to the floor.
The pin goes into a small plastic collar, which goes into a larger collar. Maybe there is a trick to adjust it there but I can't loosen them or anything.

mpetruzz

I'm in the same boat. I just sold my 6s for a 3s hatchback and when i shift my foot comes off the floor as well. If there is an adjustment for the clutch pedal I'd be interested as well. Let me know if anyone knows how to. Thanks!

justalex

According to my local Mazda dealer, the clutch is not adjustable on my 2009! And the pin or shaft is made of molded plastic with ***** on each end so you can't trim it shorter. I plan to go to their parts dept. and ask about any workarounds.

djs2571

I looked in my repair manual - no pedal adjustment. Now if you really want a work around you can make a shaft - or get one from another car and put it in there... one that does have an adjustment capability to it.
The manual says to push the shifter toward reverse to get gear grind with your foot off the pedel. Then push the pedal until the grinding stops - that's the engagement distance and should be 90-110mm (3.55-4.33"). And the full pedal stroke = 135mm or 5.31". The measurements look like they are from the center of the foot pedal.

Needing the engagement closer to the floor you need a shorter shaft, so it's a 1 time adjustment but you can always shave / grind it shorter. Or pull out the pedal and make the little tab mount for that 'push rod' adjustable - like oblong screw holes.

justalex

Thanks Dave.

justalex

PS Dave, I used a different method to measure clutch engagement. With engine running and clutch pedal to the floor, in first gear, I slowly let the pedal out until the tach registered a drop, so the clutch was starting to engage. This was 3" off floor. For the top play (approximate) I pushed the pedal in until I felt resistance. This was about 1".I used a yardstickagainst the pedal to measure. Also had the handbrake on.

djs2571

Yes, I think yours is the right way to test the clutch engagement, looking for rpm drop. Why mazda tells you to let reverse grind while slowly pressing the clutch i'm not sure.

justalex

I talked to a Mazda parts guy about an adjustable rod, he said he needs a part number, cant do it any other way. Also said Mazda has been using non-adjustable rods since the eightys.

djs2571

Well he may be correct, though I just looked in my book for an 84 RX7, and the drawing looks like an adjustable rod with a locknut, though it doesn't have a PN or how much length was adjustable on it.
The low force on the pedal overall makes it quite a pain to find the clutch bite point. I have had mine for 3 years and i'm still not used to the lack of clutch feedback to allow an easy takeoff.

I think you'll need the workshop manual, see if the clutch works to spec - and have Mazda fix it if it's out of spec.
If it is within spec and you wish to change it, it'll be fun nucklescraping to get that clutch pedal out (I did most of that job once). You can then go to someone like www.mcmaster.com and buy some threaded rod, and maybe a clevis end or a ball end like 59915K482 and make your own adjustable linkage.
Then hope that when it engages how you like it, that the clutch throwout beaing is fully disengaged - or whatever else they have on the clutch - so you don't wear anything out from not being quite fully engaged when you're off the clutch.


Good luck tweaking

vnikolic

I just replaced my rxwith a 2010 speed3 and I find the same issue with the clutch. My rx8 had an adjustable rod, and I know speed6 had an adjustable rod as well, so I'm wondering if we can use parts from either of those cars on a speed3. Any thoughts?

justalex

As to swapping out adjustable rod from another Mazda, I'll bet dealer mechanics would know. The parts guy couldnt help.

A temporary fix is to back up the seat, by trial and error, until it feels about right. But then you are almost straight-armed. Compensate by adjusting the steering wheel back.

vnikolic

I agree about the parts guys. Even the mechanics at the dealerships are mostly useless, they are the reason I replaced my RX8 (a mechanic crashed it while at the dealership!!!!).
Adjustng seat further away is a completelly wrong approach I believe. Compromising the seating position simply because Mazda screwed up the clutch makes no sense to me. I will find a way to work around this ;-). Even if I have to replace several parts to make it work. RX8 had a perfect clutch, why couldn't they learn from that.... With this car I feel like I've never driven manual (after 20 years of doing so). My daughter laughed at me when I stalled the car :-) 2200 kms in it and still not used to it. It's just wrong...