P5ChemDood

OK guys and gals. Here comes the all important question for novice automobile enthusiasts:

I'm about due for the 30k mile service, and according to the brochure and the schedule that the dealer abides by, that includes:

1) Oil change and filter
2) Fuel filter
3) Air filter
4) Spark plugs
5) Transmission "service"

So I want to talk briefly about each of these. I am fairly competent when it comes to the mechanics, but since this Pro5 has been my first brand new car, I had decided a long time ago that I could deal with having oil changes and small maintainences done by the dealer. I've always paid about $20 for an oil change, so I don't mind that as a convenience/waste disposal fee. However, now that it's time to get these other items serviced, I'm hesitant because here is how the dealer quotes:

"We have to check the spark plugs. If they are platinum, then they don't need replacing until 60k, otherwise they need to be replaced. $250 for everything if the spark plugs don't need replacing, add another $80 if they do."

So tell me; first off I feel that $80 for 4 plugs is a real dirty rip-off . Second, how is it not known what kind of plugs were put in my car at the factory? And what exactly is a "transmission service?" Aside from the oil change, I feel like I am competent enough to at least change out the plugs and the air filter. I can pick up both at the local Pep Boys or Advance Auto, and as long as the plug gap is correct, they just swap out and bolt right in, correct? I'm not entirely sure about the fuel filter, as that becomes more complicated. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone.

billzebub

I think that even with platimun plugs, you should change them. After 60K miles the things won't budge as they will has essentially welded themselves in. And $80 is steep. I changed out my bro's P5 plugs in 5 minutes and it cost ~$12. Tranny service is draining and refilling the transmission fluid. That'll run you $40-$100 on a DIY job depending on what kind of oil you buy.

kargoboy

Good Gawd, your dealer is even more incompetent than most. I wouldn't allow idiots that don't even know what kind of plugs you have touch my car.
I don't do my own oil changes either. I don't feel like looking around for a place to recycle my oil, and the filter is a pain to change if you can't get underneath the car easily. Plus, any lubrication is done at the time, which is something I'd probably forget about if I was doing it myself.
Same with the tranny fluid, which you should have changed.
Fuel filter is in the tank and does not require changing for I think 100k miles.
Plugs are easy, if you are careful. There are several threads that address this issue, you can do a search. NGKs are 10 bucks or less.

Rusty

Platinum plugs have no performance advantage over the regular OEM. You just have to change them every 30k (max) miles. By then they may have fallen off a little, so just do it a little early. They are $1.68 each at Advance Auto Parts http://www.partsamerica.com/.

cthom

I agree, do the plugs and air filter yourself. The plugs you can buy practically anywhere. I prefer NGKs, but that's just me. Your owner's manual will list the correct plug #s. And I'm pretty sure the Protege5s came with copper as opposed to platinum plugs. So, a 30k change is just right. As for the tranny service: do you have an auto? If so and you're a little worried about it then I'd have the dealer do it. It's not hard, but you'll probably have to drop the pan to change the filter - something that can be a pain. If it's a manual, then all you have to do is drain the old fluid and replace with the new. Good luck.

And if you're really manintenance-conscious, look into when the coolant needs changing and think about flushing out the brake fluid and replacing it with fresh fluid. And don't forget to lubricate all the joints, hinges, etc. Have fun!

P5ChemDood

Yeah, my P5 has a manual transmission. If "servicing" the tranny means only draining and refilling fluid, I can handle it. Although, I have a feeling the shop might also check and adjust the shifter to make sure it doesn't get caught up on shift improperly? Maybe I'm just making that up? That I will have to ask. Otherwise, yeah, I will do the air filter and plugs on my own. Thanks for the help all!

juddz

I have to disagree with you on the platinum plug thing. A platinum or irdium plug has a finer center electrode, which increases ignitability and reduces the amount of voltage necessary to make a spark. The result can be slightly improved idle stability, better starting in cold temperatures, improved ignitability in lean conditions, and much longer service life. Ignitability and reduced sparking voltages matter a lot in dense conditions, i.e. in turbocharged engines, where under boost high sparking voltage (in excess of 30KV or more) can lead to misfiring or dielectric puncture.

Our mazdas have two ignition coils, which means that in order to fire four plugs, two of them will fire positive polarity, and two will fire negative polarity. You will need double platinum plugs to extend the service interval beyond 30K miles, since the positive firing locations will exhibit erosion to the groundwire (which does not have a pt pad on it in single platinum applications). Of course, negative polarity firing cylinders will wear to the center electrode.

So, there are benefits to using premium plugs (and more exist than I mentioned) but perhaps not in terms of horsepower.

Also, no worries about removing plugs after 100K miles (if you do use a double platinum plug). Most spark plugs have plating on them. Champion and NGK have zinc chromate plating which is very resistant to corrosion. Denso and Bosch have nickel plating on them, which only prevents corrosion from happening so long as there is no vacancy in the plating. Honeywell plugs are coated with black oxide, and this is not a great way to protect against corrosion. From a performance or quality point of view, your best bet is to use NGK or Denso plugs.

escortlvr

Hey all I'm new here, but since I work at a dealership I figured I'd chime in on this one. I'm not saying that dealers aren't out to shank your money. But they have to make a living too, just like you and I.
Let's break down that "$250" 30k service charge.

Oil Change $20
Fuel Filter about $12
Air Filter about $20
Transmission service $50-90 depending on what area you live in. Which is more than a drain and refill. It's usually a BG transmission flush. We add a cleaner to remove deposits, then a conditioner after it's done. Those additives alone cost the dealer about $15-20.
Spark Plugs wouldn't be added into the cost since you have platinum. The service writers wouldn't likely know that though which is why they said IF you had plat plugs they wouldn't be changed.

So now that you have an idea of cost, for the parts how about labor? Average rate of pay is about $80+ an hour at a dealership. They pay the tech about $18 or so an hour depending on who you're having work on it.

To do all this, it usually takes about 2 hours. That's $160

See what I'm getting at here? It's not that bad of a price when you break it down.

Also, this doesn't include a rotate and balance or coolant drain and refill? That's the standard Mazda 30k.



One BIG thing people with new cars and warranties need to realize. If you never have your car serviced at our dealership, or any others for that matter. We don't consider you a "loyal" customer. If you want to get cut breaks on warranty work etc. you need to be a "loyal" customer. We have a kid with a MazdaSpeed Protege' come in all the time for ONLY warranty work. He beats the tar out of his car and expects us to fix it, which we deny as much as possible because it's not my fault he's irresponsible. On the other hand, we have another guy with a blue MazdaSpeed Protege' that does ALL his service with us. He has all kinda of aftermarket stuff, larger turbo, standalone ECU, etc. etc. , yet when something breaks we try our best to get it covered under warranty if possible. See what I'm getting at here?

Great site by the way If you guys have any questions PM or e-mail me.

juddz

Well, there you have it. Yet another damned good reason NOT to visit your Mazda dealership to get any sort of work done. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the cost of warranty repairs rolled into the vehicle price? If it wasn't, Mazda would not be making a profit right now (which they are). Obviously, there is enough profit in the price of each unit sold to cover a warranty repair or two. And, isn't a Mazdaspeed Protege (or nearly any Mazda, for that matter) supposed to be driven as if it has the "soul of a sports car"? Last time I checked, Mazda had a huge presence in SCCA (that's sports cars being driven as they are supposed to be driven - good and hard). And yet, these people hold a grudge against somebody who comes in with proof that more durability engineering needed to be done on the MSP (a fact that nearly everyone who has owned one would agree with). Thanks but no thanks. I'll keep my $280.

juddz

Mazda = a lot of fun to own
Mazda dealers = probably the worst out there

tonkabui

there's no fuel filter to be serviced on the protege. it's in the tank. as for a 30K mile service, i'd do it all myself.

spark plugs: $10
oil & oil filter: $25 max (synthetic)
tranny drain and fill: $100 max for synthetic
air filter: $20
radiator dran and fill: $60

and that's all shop prices minus labor. if you are doing this yourself, it'll be uber cheap. i did my 30K mile service for $100, and i got duped on getting iridium plugs, which didn't do anything for me and cost $45. so i recommend getting just regular plugs and doing as much of the stuff as you can on your own. it's all basic at 30K. 60K is timing belt time. i know the manual says different, but by then, you're out of warranty and would you risk losing a tooth in an interference motor?

Rac3rX

I would have to agree, car companies use the warentie as a sale point (Look at kia and Mitsubishi Almost all there advertizing is hevy into there long warrenty)

You going to charge me more if I dont have the time to make a stupid apointment 2-3 months in advance to get free shitty oil put in because of the 2 years oil (cheep oil) & servicing you added in at the point of sale (Something given with all the cars at the Dealer when I bought her, nothing special)

Mazda, On top of that 80$+ a hour? f you really think the Mazda guys are worth that much (Because I DONT) go ahead and your cash away.

For second rate service.. and to the Dude that works for Mazda, good luck with your sales or whatever you do for Mazda, I hope it works out well, this is not a Stab at you, but you have to realize that its MORE upsetting to see that "Loyal" people get better treatment, its things like this that will prevent me from buying Mazda again.

I tried to be "Loyal" but the Biotch was ******* rude, and couldnt book me for months, WTF, that is anything BUT service, I could understand a week or 2 but MONTHS! and thats, thats. They wont get another cent from me. (And I even got $4500 of the asking price, so I was really intending on being a "loyal" customer, but Mazda made it too much effort for me, when it shouldnt be any.

juddz

...again, I just think it is insane that we have somebody who works for Mazda Service admitting that people who come in and pay for repairs get better treatment than people who come for warranty repairs...

billzebub

Just wanted to point out that Mazda doesn't have a monopoly on shitty service and denial of warranty claims. I actually quit being a "Loyal" Subaru customer after they denied a warranty claim and wanted to charge me $700 to investigate a noise. I also cancelled my extended warranty and service plan at that point and started changing the oil myself...and I did my own 30K work. Subaru can suck it. They're just as bad about blaming you for driving the car the way they advertise it should be driven. 0-60 in 5.4 Seconds*

* not if you want your warranty honored.

macdaddyslomo

I have a problem with your problem...lol

Platinum Plugs are BAD for turbocharged engines...You do not want a platinum plug for a turbo charged engine...it increases likelyhood of detonation . Everything else applies perfectly for an normal engine or highly tuned NA engine.