Craig

I have a ’91 Mazda 323. It’s got a 1.8 L DOHC engine. I broke a timing belt the other day and am trying to fix it. I got the timing belt back on and lined up the cams by the manual, double checked it, and what not. I am in kind of a tight spot and need some questions answered by anyone who can help. I got it back together and now it won’t start. I did a compression test to make sure I didn’t bend a valve. I am almost 99 percent sure the timing belt is on right. Before I put the belt on ( but after it broke ) I put a distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs on. One thing I did wrong was I was in a hurry trying to beat sun down and didn’t label the plug wires. In the manual it labels the cylinders 1-2-3-4. But it says the firing order is 1-3-4-2.

1. When putting the plug wires back on do I go from the cap hole 1 to cylinder 1 and so on in the firing order or the labeled order.

So I put the timing belt on. It wouldn’t start. When I had put the rotor on, I marked how it went back ( in my head ) and now I’m thinking it went on wrong. So I did the whole TDC mess and got the rotor and cap back on. But when I put the rotor back on I checked the cylinder and made sure it was TDC. The rotor went on perfectly lined up, but the mark on the crankshaft that lines up the TDC isn’t on the mark right. But the #1 cylinder is where its suppose to be. I haven’t taken the timing belt covers off to see if the cams are lined up still. I checked and am getting plenty of fire from the plugs. I don’t know if it’s timed right though because I can’t get it started. Another question,

2. If the timing belt broke, can it knock the timing off? Enough to not start? I haven’t moved the distributor.
3. So perhaps I did misalign the cams. Can 1 tooth off be enough to keep it from starting?

This is my first import I have worked on alone. My dad had a Subaru he had to replace the timing belt on. We did it wrong because you had to rotate the cams ( too hard to describe ) But we did it wrong the first time, but it ran on 2 dead cylinders though. I can see how that could happen it was an opposed 4 DOHC. It didn’t have a separate cam for exhaust and intake, it ran 2 cylinders off of one cam. Could this do the same thing?

So here is the situation I’m in. I can get the crank and exhaust cam lined up. The rotor and cap are fine.

4. Would the timing belt breaking hurt the distributor. Its not locked up, and I have fire ( if its correct I have no clue). I haven’t taken it out or moved it.

I can get the exhaust and crank lined up.

5. How can I tell if the intake cam is lined up? I know by the markings on the sprockets, but any other way?

Anyone have any advice or know whats up with my ride that can help??

Davard

1. Use the firing order. The direction should be on the cap.

2. As long as the cams are lined up with the crank, it should be fine.

3. One tooth off will still start. It will run like crap, but still run.

4. The distributor is driven off the end of the exhaust cam. Can't be hurt this way.

5. The dowel pins on both cams should be at the top of each cam.

Is it possible that you have the rotor (in the distributor) in the wrong place? You may have it off 180 degrees, which would keep it from starting. (This can happen if the crank got an extra turn in compared to the camshafts, I believe). Of course, it's now 2:30am, so I may not be thinking too clearly.)

Craig

where are the dowel pins? Are they under the cam caps?

protejay

this *may* help:

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/sho...&threadid=8486

also

http://miata.net/garage/timingbelt.html

the details are a little different for the miata, but the basics are the same...

Davard

They are what keeps the cam gears from turning relative to the cams. If you look at the cam gears, next to the bolt heads, there are two slots. One slot each points to I and E. You'll find the dowel pins in the slots appropriate to the cams (under the I on the intake cam gear, etc).

Craig

So let me get this straight, The I on the intake cam should be facing up, and the E on the exhaust cam should be facing up? Is that right?

Craig

I'm sorry for the questions so descriptively, I got a manual, but it doen't show my engine.

protejay

yes.

they both should be 'facing up' when the notch on the crank pulley is aligned with the mark on the oil pump (it too will be 'facing up')

Craig

OK I got everything back on, but it still won't start. It sounds like I have a dead battery ( but I don't ) It turns over really, really, slow. What now? I want to put it in the shop, but no money. I just moved to San Antonio, started college, and well am broke. I put my last everything into my ride, and it's still not working? Any ideas?

UCSBgeek

maybe you should post in the regional section near the bottom of the main page... and see if somebody can come help you

Bill

Hey Craig,
Check your PM's and give me a call in the evening. I'm in S.A. also.
Bill

Craig

I pulled the plugs out again, and now 2 of them are covered in ablack soot. Is this from having the wrong plug wires on? There brand new plugs. Is this a free wheeling engine? If the timing belt broke could it bend a valve? When I try and start it now it turns over really slow like the battery is dead. Whats with that? Need some more help please.....

knightrider

the last time i switched wires i didnt mark the distributor and it took for every to find it. if i remember correctly this is how it goes.

leaning over the driver fender looking right at the distributor.


front of car/distributor/back of car.

the firing order on the cap is as follows

1 3

4 2
that s all i can give you dont know a thing about the actual state of the engine

sorry